Mont blanc

The crown jewel of the alps

Situated in the heart of the Alps, Mont Blanc, or “White Mountain,” is Western Europe’s highest peak, reaching an astounding altitude of 4,810 meters.

A symbol of natural grandeur and mountaineering history, it has fascinated explorers, climbers, and tourists from around the world.

This comprehensive essay offers an in-depth exploration of Mont Blanc’s unique features, climbing aspects, historical events, and natural environment.

I. Sovereignty:

Straddling the borders of France and Italy, Mont Blanc’s sovereignty has been a topic of discussion for centuries. Historically, both nations have laid claim to the peak. The Treaty of Turin in 1860 declared that the mountain’s highest summit belonged to France, with the remaining territory divided between the two countries. Today, while the whole massif is enjoyed and managed by both nations, Mont Blanc’s peak is officially recognized as French territory.

II.Climate:

Mont Blanc’s climate is typically alpine, characterized by cold, snowy winters and mild summers. Its altitude has a significant impact on its weather, which can change rapidly, posing challenges for climbers. The mountain’s higher reaches are glaciated and snow-covered throughout the year.

III. History:

Mont Blanc has a rich and varied history. The first recorded ascent was made by Jacques Balmat and Dr. Michel Paccard in 1786, marking the dawn of modern mountaineering. The feat was celebrated across Europe and sparked an era of alpine exploration known as the Golden Age of Alpinism.

IV. Climbing Routes and Seasons:

Several routes lead to the summit of Mont Blanc, each presenting its unique challenges and rewards. The most popular is the Gouter Route, often considered the standard or normal route. It is physically demanding but requires less technical climbing than other paths. Other notable routes include the Three Monts Route and the Grands Mulets Route.

Climbing Mont Blanc is typically a two-day endeavour, with climbers acclimatizing at a high-altitude mountain hut before making the final ascent. The optimal time for climbing is during the summer months, from June to September, when the weather conditions are generally more stable.

V.Glaciers:

Mont Blanc’s glaciers are one of its most distinctive features. These include the Mer de Glace, France’s largest glacier, and the Miage Glacier, the longest glacier in Italy. However, these glaciers have been receding at an alarming rate due to climate change, losing considerable length and volume over the past decades.

VI.Air Crashes:

Mont Blanc’s inaccessible and harsh terrain has been the unfortunate site of several air crashes over the years. The most notable of these include the 1950 crash of Air India Flight 245, the “Malabar Princess,” and the crash of another Air India plane, the “Kanchenjunga,” in 1966. Both incidents have left a mark on Mont Blanc’s history, with remnants of the crashes emerging from the melting glaciers even today.

VII. Famous Climbers:

Mont Blanc has been a focal point for many famed mountaineers. Besides Jacques Balmat and Dr. Michel Paccard, the first successful climbers, notable names include Marie Paradis, the first woman to reach the summit in 1808, and Gaston Rébuffat, a renowned French alpinist and mountain guide who was the first person to climb all six of the great north faces of the Alps.

VIII. Mortality Rates:

Mountaineering in high-altitude terrains like Mont Blanc inherently carries a level of risk. The French authorities estimate an average of 20-30 fatalities per year on Mont Blanc, primarily due to falls, avalanches, or sudden weather changes. While the mountain is not technically as challenging as the 8000m peaks in the Himalayas, underestimating it can lead to severe consequences.

IX.Avalanche Risks:

Mont Blanc’s climate and steep slopes make it susceptible to avalanches, especially in winter and spring. The most dangerous areas are the Grand Couloir on the Gouter Route, notorious for frequent rockfall, and the slopes above the Tête Rousse Hut. Climbers and skiers are advised to get up-to-date information on snow and weather conditions and to carry avalanche safety equipment.

X.Famous Anecdotes:

Mont Blanc is steeped in many legendary tales. One famous story involves Jacques Balmat, who reportedly made a pact with a crystal hunter, Jean-Marie Couttet, to conquer the summit together. However, Balmat reached the summit with Dr. Paccard first, leading to a lifetime rivalry with Couttet.

XII.General Information:

Climbing Mont Blanc requires a high level of physical fitness, acclimatization to high altitudes, and basic knowledge of using mountaineering equipment. The mountain’s popularity often leads to overcrowding in the summer months, which can pose additional risks. Despite its challenges, reaching the summit of Mont Blanc and looking out over the spread of the Alps is a sight to behold and a dream for many mountaineers worldwide.

This is a glimpse of the many facets of Mont Blanc, a symbol of natural grandeur and the rich history of mountaineering. While its splendour draws thousands every year, the mountain demands respect, preparedness, and awareness of its potential dangers.

A brief history of Chamonix

The Chamonix Mont Blanc region has a rich and storied history, which dates back to prehistoric times. However, the more recent history, beginning in the 18th century, has been primarily shaped by the tourism industry, scientific exploration, and changing political boundaries.

1700s:

– 1741: Two Englishmen, William Windham (an antiquarian) and Richard Pococke (a bishop), visit the “Mer de Glace” (Sea of Ice) above Chamonix. Their expedition, and subsequent publication of their travel narrative, made Chamonix renowned in European circles and marked the beginning of tourism in the region.

– 1786: Mont Blanc is ascended for the first time by Jacques Balmat and Dr. Michel Paccard. This event marked the start of modern mountaineering.

1800s:

– Early 1800s: Chamonix, originally part of the Kingdom of Sardinia, was ceded to France following the Treaty of Paris in 1815, after Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo.

– 1821: The Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, the world’s oldest and largest association of mountain guides, was founded.

– 1860: The Sardinian province of Savoy, including Chamonix, is officially annexed by France following a treaty between France and the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia. The annexation is confirmed by a plebiscite in which Savoyards vote overwhelmingly in favor of joining France.

– 1892: The luxurious Hotel Montenvers opens, providing a base for tourists wishing to visit the Mer de Glace.

– 1901: Chamonix’s population reaches approximately 3,000, with many residents working in the tourism industry.

1900s:

– 1924: Chamonix hosts the first Winter Olympics, which boosted its international reputation as a winter sports destination.

– 1955: The cable car to the Aiguille du Midi is completed, which greatly enhances Chamonix’s attractiveness as a ski destination.

– 1960s: Chamonix’s tourism industry continues to boom. The population grows and many new hotels and holiday residences are built.

– 1986: The Mont Blanc tunnel linking France and Italy opens, making Chamonix more accessible and enhancing its role as an international tourist destination.

2000s:

– Early 2000s: Chamonix continues to be a world-renowned mountain resort and a center for mountaineering, skiing, and outdoor sports.

– 2010: A section of the Glacier des Bossons breaks off, reminding residents and visitors of the ongoing impact of climate change on the Alps.

– 2013: Chamonix celebrates the 150th anniversary of its annexation by France.

The region’s history has been profoundly shaped by its geography. The majestic peaks of the Mont Blanc massif have drawn tourists and adventurers from around the world, transforming this once-remote valley into a bustling hub of tourism and outdoor sports. As we look to the future, challenges such as managing tourism sustainably and mitigating the impacts of climate change will likely play a significant role in shaping the region’s development.

Alpinism in Chamonix

During the mid-19th century, the golden age of alpinism, numerous British climbers and their Swiss or French guides established many classic climbing routes in the Alps.

Edward Whymper, one of the most famous alpinists of the time, made the first ascent of the Grand Jorasses, one of the most challenging peaks in the Mont Blanc massif, in 1868.

Horace-Benedict de Saussure, a Swiss naturalist and one of the pioneers in alpine exploration, is also a significant figure from this period. He made several attempts to climb Mont Blanc and finally succeeded in 1787.

20th Century:

The 20th century saw significant developments in climbing techniques and equipment, and many famous climbers emerged during this period.
Gaston Rébuffat, a famous French alpinist and mountain guide, made numerous first ascents in the Mont Blanc massif during the mid-20th century. He was one of the first climbers to embrace climbing as a form of expression and art, rather than just a physical challenge.

Tragic Losses:

Tragically, Chamonix’s climbing history also includes numerous fatalities. The north face of the Grand Jorasses, in particular, has claimed many lives.

In 1997, renowned British climber Alison Hargreaves died while descending from the summit of K2, but she had previously made her mark in Chamonix. In 1995, she became the first woman to solo climb the dangerous north face of the Eiger, a feat she accomplished while six months pregnant.

Recent Years:

Today, Chamonix continues to attract elite climbers from around the world. Ueli Steck, a Swiss climber famous for his speed ascents, set a record in 2015 by climbing the 1,000 meter north face of the Grandes Jorasses in just 2 hours and 21 minutes.

The mountains around Chamonix continue to be a proving ground for climbers, and the region remains one of the world’s premier destinations for mountaineering.

Remember, while the peaks of Chamonix offer an unparalleled climbing experience, they also present significant risks. Safety should always be the top priority in the mountains, and all climbers, regardless of their experience level, should take the necessary precautions when planning their ascents.

Argentière and La Vallée Blanche

Argentière: Argentière is a village located 8 km north of Chamonix at an altitude of around 1,250 meters. It’s known for its ski area, Les Grands Montets, which is loved by advanced and expert skiers due to its challenging pistes and off-piste opportunities.

Skiing: Les Grands Montets ski area is one of the most challenging in the Chamonix Valley, offering plenty of steep, high-altitude skiing. The area extends up to an altitude of 3,295 meters and provides extensive off-piste options when conditions permit. It’s less suited to beginners, although there are a few lower-level slopes in the Lognan area.

Ice Climbing: Argentière itself isn’t known as a hub for ice climbing, but nearby Chamonix has numerous routes. In particular, the Vallée Blanche has some ice climbing spots that can be accessed with a mountain guide. Always ensure you are well-equipped and knowledgeable about the risks.

Mountain Biking: The Chamonix Valley, including Argentière, is crisscrossed with mountain biking trails. The Petit Balcon Nord is a notable trail that runs through Argentière. Please check with local guides or the tourist office for detailed trail maps and advice.

Hiking: There are many hiking options around Argentière. The Tour du Mont Blanc trail and the Petit Balcon Nord are popular choices. In the summer, you can take the lifts up to Les Grands Montets and hike in the high mountains.

La Vallée Blanche: La Vallée Blanche is a famous off-piste ski route in the Mont Blanc massif, starting from the Aiguille du Midi and ending either at Montenvers, or, if conditions permit, Chamonix itself.

Skiing: The classic Vallée Blanche route is around 20 km long with a vertical descent of about 2,700 meters. Despite not being technically demanding, it requires knowledge of glacier skiing and crevasse rescue. Therefore, it’s recommended to hire a mountain guide. There are also more challenging variants of the Vallée Blanche route for experienced off-piste skiers.

Ice Climbing: La Vallée Blanche is primarily known for skiing, but in Chamonix, there are various places to do ice climbing. The Mer de Glace accessible from the Montenvers train, or the Argentière Glacier, could provide opportunities. As with all climbing activities, make sure you are with a guide or have the necessary skills and equipment.

Mountain Biking: The Aiguille du Midi and La Vallée Blanche are not suitable for mountain biking due to the steep and glaciated terrain. However, there are plenty of mountain biking routes in the Chamonix Valley.

Hiking: While La Vallée Blanche is typically traversed on skis, there are mountaineering routes in this area, including the classic Haute Route to Zermatt. These require glacier travel skills and should be attempted with a guide. For hiking, the Chamonix Valley has numerous trails.

For all activities, it’s crucial to be aware of the high-alpine environment’s inherent risks, including altitude sickness, rapid weather changes, and crevasses on glaciers. Always check the local weather and avalanche forecasts, and let someone know your plans. Equipment rental and mountain guides can be found in Chamonix and Argentière.

Ski Touring and Ski Mountaineering Routes in Chamonix Mont Blanc

Ski touring (Randonnée) around Chamonix are world class, with some lift accessible and other short ascents to some of the best terrain and descents in the world. Quite aside from the stunning alpine backdrop Chamonix has the benefit of high altitude and the stunning drama of the Mont Blanc and chain of mountains marching around Europe’s highest mountain peak.

Here are some of our favourite ski touring excursions!

1.Vallée Blanche : Classic Route: Starting from Aiguille du Midi, this is the most accessible route down the Vallée Blanche. The 20km descent is a truly unforgettable high mountain experience, offering stunning views of the surrounding peaks and crevasses.

2.Col du Passon: Starting from the Grands Montets ski area, this route involves a relatively straightforward ascent to the Col du Passon, followed by a spectacular descent to Le Tour.

3.Glacier d’Argentière Tour: This tour covers several glaciers in the Argentière basin. It involves an initial ascent to the Grands Montets, then a traverse of the Glacier des Rognons and Glacier d’Argentière before the descent.

4.Grand Envers du Plan: A more challenging route down the Vallée Blanche, this itinerary should only be attempted by advanced skiers. The Grand Envers offers steeper slopes and requires good snow conditions.

5.Chamonix-Zermatt Haute Route: This legendary high mountain tour takes around five days, starting from Chamonix and ending in Zermatt. It covers a variety of terrain, including glaciers, high passes, and spectacular descents.

6.Les Trois Cols (Three Passes) Tour: This challenging route begins from Argentière and crosses the Col du Chardonnet, the Fenêtre de Saleina, and the Col du Tour.

7. Col du Belvédère: This route in the Aiguilles Rouges offers superb views of the Mont Blanc massif. The ascent begins from the Flegère ski area and climbs to the Col du Belvédère, followed by a descent through the Carlaveyron nature reserve.

8. Crochues-Bérard Traverse: This popular route in the Aiguilles Rouges offers an enjoyable ski mountaineering experience with a relatively straightforward ascent and a fun descent into the Bérard valley.

9. Petit Envers du Plan: A less demanding version of the Grand Envers route, this itinerary still provides a thrilling off-piste experience down the Vallée Blanche.

10. Col d’Entrèves: This route starts from Courmayeur and involves a ski ascent to the Col d’Entrèves, followed by a descent on the Vallée Blanche.

Please remember that these routes should only be attempted with adequate preparation and knowledge of the mountain conditions. Always consider hiring a professional mountain guide to ensure safety. The weather and snow conditions in the high mountains can change rapidly, and a guide’s expertise and experience can be invaluable

Ski Areas

Here’s a rundown of the notable ski areas in the Chamonix and Les Houches regions, as of my last training data in September 2021. The precise details may have changed, so please verify all information independently:

1.Les Grands Montets, Argentière: This ski area is well-known for its steep, demanding slopes and its excellent off-piste skiing. The elevation ranges from 1235m at the base to 3300m at the summit, providing a vertical drop of approximately 2065m. It has around 10 lifts and covers approximately 28.6km of marked runs.

2.La Flégère, Chamonix: Accessible from the village of Les Praz de Chamonix, the Flégère ski area offers great views of the Mer de Glace glacier. The elevation ranges from 1030m to 2525m, with a vertical drop of around 1495m. The area has roughly 7 lifts and covers about 20km of marked runs.

3. Les Planards, Chamonix: This is a smaller area, suitable for beginners and families. The elevation is from 1062m to 1242m, providing a vertical drop of about 180m. It features 4 lifts and covers 2.5km of runs.

4.Le Savoy, Chamonix: A beginner-friendly ski area located in the town of Chamonix itself. The elevation ranges from 1049m to 1123m, providing a vertical drop of 74m. It has 2 lifts and offers a small area of easy slopes.

5. Les Houches, Chamonix Valley: This area provides a mix of slopes suitable for all abilities. The elevation is from 950m to 1900m, providing a vertical drop of 950m. It has approximately 18 lifts and covers around 55km of piste.

6. Evasion Mont Blanc, Megeve/Saint Gervais: Not directly in the Chamonix Valley but nearby, this expansive ski area has elevations ranging from 1100m to 2353m, a vertical drop of about 1253m, and roughly 107 lifts. It provides access to over 445km of runs.

7. Balme-Vallorcine, Chamonix Valley: This area at the head of the Chamonix Valley offers a variety of runs. The elevation ranges from 1250m to 2270m, with a vertical drop of about 1020m. It features approximately 11 lifts and covers 29km of marked runs.

8. L’Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix: This is the starting point of the famous Vallée Blanche, an unmarked, ungroomed, and unpatrolled off-piste ski route. The cable car rises from 1035m to 3842m, providing a massive vertical drop. Note that this route should only be attempted with a mountain guide and appropriate safety equipment.

9. Vallorcine, Chamonix Valley: This quiet area is part of the Balme-Vallorcine ski area (mentioned above).

Please note that these ski areas may operate differently depending on the season and weather conditions, and it’s recommended to check the official website of each ski area or contact them directly for the most accurate and up-to-date information, including opening times, lift pass prices, and safety information.